Everything about Horse Meat totally explained
Horse meat is the culinary name for meat cut from a
horse. It is slightly sweet, tender, low in fat, and high in protein. Like beef and pork, it's a
taboo food in some religions and cultures. The name for eating horse meat is hippophagy.
History
In the late Paleolithic (
Magdalenian Era),
wild horses formed an important source of food.
In pre-Christian times, horse meat was eaten in
northern Europe as part of indigenous
Germanic pagan religious ceremonies, particularly those associated with the worship of
Odin.
France dates its taste for horse meat to
the Revolution.
With the fall of aristocracy, its auxiliaries had to find other ways.
Just as hairdressers and tailors oriented themselves to serve commoners, the horses maintained by aristocracy as a sign of prestige ended alleviating the hunger of lower classes. Horse meat gained widespread acceptance in
French cuisine during the later years of the
Second French Empire. The high cost of living in
Paris prevented many working-class citizens from buying meat such as
pork or
beef, so in 1866 the French government legalized the eating of horse meat and the first butcher's shop specializing in horse meat opened in eastern Paris, providing quality meat at lower prices. During the
Siege of 1870-71, horse meat was eaten by anyone who could afford it, partly because of a shortage of fresh meat in the blockaded city, and also because horses were eating grain which was needed by the human populace. Many Parisians gained a taste for horse meat during the siege, and after the war ended, horse meat remained popular.
Despite the general
Anglophone taboo, horse and donkey meat was eaten in Britain, especially in
Yorkshire, until the 1930s.
The taboo
Which cultures
Horse is commonly eaten in many countries in Europe and Asia. It is a
taboo food in
English-speaking countries such as the
United Kingdom, Ireland, the
US, and
Australia; it's also taboo amongst the
Romany people and in
Brazil and
India. Horse meat isn't generally eaten in
Spain, although the country exports horses both "on the hoof and on the hook" (for example, live animals and slaughtered meat) for the French and Italian market; however, horse meat is consumed in some
Latin American countries such as
Mexico. It is illegal in some countries.
In many
Islamic countries horse meat is generally forbidden or considered
makruh, meaning it isn't forbidden, but it's better not to eat because of some minor side-effects it might cause. However, horse meat is eaten in some Muslim
Central Asian countries with a tradition of
nomadic
pastoralism, for example,
Kazakhstan,
Kyrgyzstan and
Turkmenistan. In other
majority-Muslim countries there have been many instances, especially wars and famine, when horses were slaughtered and eaten.
Horse meat is forbidden by
Jewish dietary laws because horses don't have
cloven hooves and they're not
ruminants.
In the eighth century, Popes
Gregory III and
Zachary instructed
Saint Boniface, missionary to the Germans, to forbid the eating of horse flesh to those he converted, due to its association with Germanic pagan ceremonies. The people of
Iceland allegedly expressed reluctance to embrace
Christianity for some time, largely over the issue of giving up horse meat.
The culturally close people of
Sweden still have an ambivalent attitude to horsemeat, said to stem from this time.
Reasons for the taboo
In some countries the effects of this prohibition by the
Roman Catholic Church have lingered, and horse meat prejudices have progressed from
taboos, to avoidance, to abhorrence., some cultures class horsemeat as taboo because the horse converts grass into meat less efficiently than
ruminants. When breeding cattle for meat, a cow or a sheep will produce more meat than a horse if fed with the same amount of grass. However, these cattle (apart from the ox) can't be used as working animals, and this argument doesn't address the issue of meat wastage.
There is also an element of sentimentality, as horses have long enjoyed a close relationship with many humans, on a similar level to household pets – this can be seen projected in such Anglophone
popular culture icons as
Black Beauty or even
My Little Pony. Compare with the
anthropomorphic pigs in
Babe and
Charlotte's Web.
Totemistic taboo is also a possible reason for refusal to eat horsemeat.
Roman sources state that the horse goddess
Epona was widely worshipped in
Gaul and southern Britain; the
Uffington White Horse is probable evidence of ancient horse worship. The ancient Indian
Brahmins engaged in horse sacrifice, as recorded in the
Vedas. In 1913, the Finnic
Mari people of the
Volga region were observed to practice a horse sacrifice..
British law requires the use of "
equine passports" even for semi-
wild horses to enable
traceability (also known as "provenance"), so most slaughtering is done in the UK before the meat is exported.
Ex-racehorses, riding horses, and other horses sold at auction may also enter the
food chain; sometimes these animals have been stolen or purchased under false pretenses. Even famous horses may end up in the slaughterhouse; the 1986
Kentucky Derby winner and 1987
Eclipse Award for Horse of the Year winner, Ferdinand, is believed to have been slaughtered in Japan, probably for
pet food.
In 2005, the eight principal horsemeat producing countries produced over 700,000 tonnes of this product.
» » Source:
The British newspaper
The Daily Mail reports that every year, 100,000 live horses are transported into and around the
European Union for human consumption, mainly to Italy but also to France and Belgium.
Meat from horses that veterinarians have
put down with a lethal injection isn't consumed, as the toxin remains in the meat; the carcasses of such animals are
cremated (all other means of disposal are problematic, due to the toxin).
Opposition to production
The killing of horses for human consumption is widely opposed in countries such as
USA and
Britain where horses are generally considered to be companion and sporting animals only. French actress and
animal rights activist
Brigitte Bardot has spent years crusading against the eating of horse meat. However, the opposition is far from unanimous; a 2007 readers' poll in the
London magazine
Time Out showed that 82% of respondents supported
celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay's decision to serve horse meat in his restaurants (see further discussion
here).
Lobbying Efforts to Stop Horse Slaughter in the United States
See
horse slaughter.
Preparation
Horse meat has a slightly sweet taste reminiscent of a combination of beef and
venison. Meat from younger horses tends to be lighter in color while older horses produce richer color and flavor, as with most
mammals. Horse meat can be used to replace beef, pork, mutton, and any other meat in virtually any recipe.
Those preparing
sandwiches or cold meals with horse meat usually use it smoked and salted. Horse meat forms an ingredient in several traditional recipes of
salami.
Horse meat in various countries
Austria
Horse
leberkäse is available and quite popular at various hot dog stands.
Kare is a stew made with horse meat and a variety of vegetables. The base of the dish is made from a peanut sauce (sometimes spiced), horse meat, and occasionally offal or tripe. Dumplings can also be prepared with horse meat, spinach or Tyrolean
Graukäse (a sour milk cheese). They are occasionally eaten on their own, in a soup, or as a side-dish.
Belgium
In Belgium, horse meat (
paardenvlees in
Flemish and
viande chevaline in French) is highly prized. It is used in
steak tartare, in which, compared to the beef equivalent, the richer flavor of the horse meat lends itself better to the pungent seasoning used in preparation. Besides being served raw, it can be broiled for a short period, producing a crusty exterior and a raw, moist interior. Smoked horse meat is very popular as breakfast and sandwich meat. Horse steaks are also very popular; the town of
Vilvoorde has a few restaurants specializing in this dish. Horse-sausage is a well known local specialty in
Lokeren with European recognition.
It is widely believed that traditional
Belgian fried potatoes (
pommes frites) were cooked in horse fat, but in fact ox fat (
suet) was used, although for health reasons this has been supplanted by nut oil (considered inferior by many).
Canada
Agriculture in the province of
Québec seems to prosper under the prohibitions from the United States. There is a thriving horse meat business in this
province; the meat is available in most supermarket chains. Horse meat is also for sale at the other end of the country, in
Granville Island Market in
downtown Vancouver where, according to a
Time magazine reviewer who smuggled it into the United States, it turned out to be a "sweet, rich, superlean, oddly soft meat, closer to beef than venison".
Chile
In
Chile it's used in
charqui.
China
Horse meat isn't available in most parts of China, although it's generally acceptable to Chinese. Its lack of popularity is mostly due to its low availability and some rumors saying that horse meat tastes bad or it's bad for health, even
poisonous. In
Compendium of Materia Medica, a
pharmaceutical text published in 1596,
Li Shizhen wrote "To relieve toxin caused by eating horse meat, one can drink
carrot juice and eat
almond." Today, in southwestern China, there are locally famous dishes such as Horse Meat
Rice Vermicelli (马肉米粉) in
Guilin. In the northwest,
Kazakhs eat horse meat.
France
In France, specialized butcher shops (
boucheries chevalines) sell horsemeat, as ordinary butcher shops have been for a long time forbidden to deal in it. However, since the 1990s, it can be found in supermarket butcher shops and others. An organization called
La Viande Chevaline
(literally, "horsemeat") exists to promote the industry, offering consumer information such as recipes, nutrition, purchase locations, and so on. According to its website, approximately 15 000 horses a year are raised for meat production, mostly draft breeds. It argues that the economic importance of horsemeat helps maintain the genetic heritage of traditional French breeds.
Germany
In
Germany, horse meat is traditionally used in
sauerbraten, a strongly marinated type of sweet-sour braised meat dish; in the last couple of decades, beef has become more commonly used. This dish is often eaten with
Klöße (potato dumplings, in the
Rhineland) or
Spätzle (noodles, in
Southern Germany) and red cabbage.
Rosswurst (horse sausage) is a sausage containing horse meat and beef and is mostly sold in
Bavaria.
Iceland
In
Iceland it's both eaten minced and as steak, also used in
stews and
fondue, prized for its strong flavor.
Indonesia
In
Indonesia, one type of
satay (chunks of grilled meat served with spicy sauce) known as
sate jaran is made from horse meat. This delicacy from
Yogyakarta is served with sliced fresh
shallot (small red onion), pepper, and sweet soy sauce.
Italy
Italian cuisine is highly regional. Horse meat is used in a stew called
pastissada, served as horse or colt steaks, as
carpaccio, or made into
bresaola. Horse fat is used in recipes such as . In the region of
Veneto a dish is prepared which consists of shredded, cured horsemeat on a bed of
arugula, dressed with olive oil and fresh lemon juice. Also in Veneto, horsemeat sausages called
salsiccia di equino and thin strips of horse meat called
sfilacci are sold. The straight horsemeat steak
carne di cavallo, similar to classic American
Porterhouse steak, is generally available in the
Tyrol and
Südtyrol regions of the
Italian Alps. Chefs and consumers tend to prize its uniqueness by serving it as rare as possible.
Donkey is also cooked, for example as a pasta sauce called
stracotto d'asino. According to British food writer
Matthew Fort, "The taste for donkey and horse goes back to the days when these animals were part of everyday agricultural life. In the frugal, unsentimental manner of agricultural communities, all the animals were looked on as a source of protein. Waste wasn't an option."
Japan
In
Japanese
cuisine, raw horse meat is called
sakura (桜) or
sakuraniku (桜肉,
sakura means
cherry blossom,
niku means meat) because of its pink colour. It can be served raw as very chewy
sashimi in thin slices dipped in soy sauce, often with ginger and onions added. In this case, it's called
basashi (
Japanese: 馬刺し). Fat, typically from the neck, is also found as
basashi, though it's white, not pink. Horse meat is also sometimes found on menus for
yakiniku (a type of barbecue), where it's called
baniku (literally, "horse meat") or
bagushi ("skewered horse"); thin slices of raw horse meat are sometimes served wrapped in a
shiso leaf.
Kumamoto,
Matsumoto and
Oita are famous for
basashi, and it's common in the
Tohoku region as well. There is also a dessert made from horse meat called
basashi ice cream. The company that makes it's known for its unusual ice cream flavors, many of which have limited popularity.
Kazakhstan
In
Kazakhstan horse meat is a large part of the diet, due mainly to the nomadic roots of the population. Some of the dishes include sausages called
kazy and
shuzhuk made from the meat using the guts as the sausage skin,
zhaya made from hip meat which is smoked and boiled,
zhal made from neck fat which is smoked and boiled,
karta made from a section of the rectum which is smoked and boiled, and
sur-yet which is kept as dried meat.
Malta
In
Malta stallion meat is commonly used in various dishes. It is usually fried or baked in a white wine sauce.
Mongolia
Mongolia, a nation famous for its nomadic pastures and equestrian skills, also includes horse meat on the menu.
.
The Netherlands
In the
Netherlands, smoked horse meat (
paardenrookvlees) is sold as sliced meat and eaten on bread. There are also beef-based variants. Horse meat is also into sausage (
paardenworst). The popularity of both varies regionally.
Norway
In Norway horse meat is used in some sausages, such as Vossafår.
Poland
Used in production of
kabanos, recently declining in popularity.
Slovenia
Horse meat is generally available in
Slovenia. Colt steak (
žrebičkov zrezek) is available in some restaurants and there's a popular fast-food restaurant in
Ljubljana called Hot-Horse that serves hamburgers made of horse meat.
Sweden
In Sweden horse meat outsells lamb and mutton combined. (as was whale meat, never popular and now also taboo). The sale of horse meat in supermarkets and butchers is minimal, and most of the horse meat consumed in the UK is imported from Europe, predominantly the
South of France, where it's more widely available.
Horse meat may be consumed inadvertently. A
Food Standards Agency 2003 investigation revealed that
salami sometimes contains horse meat, without this ingredient being listed. Listing is legally required.
United States
People in the United States rarely eat horse meat, but during
World War II, due to the low supply and high price of beef, the state of
New Jersey legalized its sale. At war's end, the state again prohibited the sale of horse meat, possibly in response to pressure from the beef lobby.
Harvard University's
Faculty Club
had horse meat on the menu for over one hundred years, until 1983.
Until 2007, a few horse meat abattoirs still existed in the United States, selling meat to zoos to feed their carnivores, and exporting it for human consumption, but recently the last has closed by court order.
Further Information
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